Paris, France

Paris is full of fabulous fountains with elaborate sculptures

Overall Impression If you enjoy French culture, products and gourmet food and are prepared to spend some time, effort and money in your search, Paris can be heavenly. It is expensive and hard to get around at times. Though some complain about Parisian attitudes we found dwellers of this city of eight million ever more courteous than residents of similar sized cities in other parts of the world. We encountered ready to serve, welcoming, and courteous attitudes at most places we visited with the exception of over large museums, and giant department stores where the attitude was generally deplorable. Although service didn’t arrive with a Disney like smile, staff at luxury hotels, restaurants and boutiques greeted us well and went out of their way to ensure our visit was pleasant and satisfying. Over the years, we found courtesy and a small attempt at French go a long way to getting help and a favorable attitude from locals.

There are so many things to see, places to go, movies to watch, meals to eat that we could go on for a while. In the interest of time and space, here is our bottom line: For those of us who yearn time and again to enjoy French culture, food, shopping, and that je ne sais quoi (mystique) that defines French lifestyle, Paris continues to offer one of the most fun, exciting, romantic, beautiful and expensive journeys of discovery in Europe. Arguments to the contrary not withstanding, we found some of the best gourmet meals, bread/pastries, champagne, perfume/cosmetics chocolates (with and without truffles), incense, cheese, foi gras and pate and women’s clothing on the planet in this timeless city. They are not necessarily the cheapest, most practical or easiest to find. Even if champagne and French wine survive their trips abroad, French food outside France never tastes as good. For us enjoying while we are there is the best way to experience it.

Location In France

Currency Euro

Money issues ATMs have been a blessing during our last few trips to Europe. Travelers’ checks, even in local currency, were often frowned upon so we gave up on them and waiting in long lines to exchange currency lost its appeal a long time ago. Extended stays were sometimes challenging because it was difficult for non-resident foreigners to open bank accounts there. Credit cards, though widely accepted, were problematic because we didn’t have data chips in our cards and many local systems required or preferred them, or so we were told. On several occasions we had to leave stores empty handed and return with cash because they couldn’t process our credit card.

Measures Metric system

Language French although staff in most luxury hotels and restaurants speak some English

Electrical current 220

Transportation Getting around town took some time, especially during rush hour. Public transportation has become increasingly crowded. During especially crowded times and on popular routes we sometimes had to cram into sardine can like bus or subway car or wait for things to quiet down. Traffic could be overwhelming, even if you know where you are going and which of the countless one-way streets will get you there. Taxis, rental cars (for those of stout heart wishing to brave the manic traffic) or private hire cars were sometimes the best solution. Finding a taxi at a train station or airport, especially following the arrival or a large train or airplane required some time (we stood in line outdoors for 40 minutes waiting for a taxi at one popular train station) and patience. Though it was easier than it was at one time to get a taxi in town, it can be a challenge. All it needed was rain and all of a sudden, there were no taxis available. During the end of year holidays scheduling a taxi could be near impossible and even if they agree to pick you up, they may not show up. Some companies charged a fee to schedule taxi airport pick up service. Some of the better hotels offered a driver service. Le Bristol even lent guests a mini car to go shopping.

Cost of visiting With the dollar at an all-time low, prices often ranged closer to expensive, especially for luxury items

Technology GSM cellular phones were readily available and high speed Internet connectivity was available at all of the high end hotels and at the rental apartment we stayed.

Shopping and souvenirs A week dollar made a tremendous impact on our buying power during our latest trips. The only “bargains” we found (except for the beginning and middle of the year sales) were French cosmetics and designer clothes. Though gourmet meals could cost hundreds of dollars for lunch or dinner for two, when we took into account the number of staff, size of the restaurants, wine and alcohol inventories, quality of the food and effort in preparing our meal we found it was fair or at least not excessive, especially if we paid attention to our wine selections. Foodies and amateur chefs had lots of options and opportunities to learn (cooking lessons of all sorts including some with a simultaneous translation to English were available), shop, taste and discover countless recipes and marvelous wines. Fresh herbs and fruits in season, fresh seafood, regional specialties and foreign dishes, chocolates, pastries and bread were among the many attractions. Whenever we can, we have lunch or dinner at a least one top rated restaurant (see our reviews).

Date of latest visit December 2007

Would you visit this attraction again? Yes

Shopping Favorites

There are many places we like in Paris but only a few we consider special. Following is a list of favorite places for quality, services, price or a combination of them.

Hediard brand items available at the Hediard boutiques and fine department stores for gourmet mustards, honey, chocolates, candied fruit and many other gourmet delights.

Pierre Hermé

We visited the boutique in the heart of the Latin Quarter near the famous Saint Sulpice for unbelievable macarons. They also have a shop in the 15 arrondissement and three shops in Japan. Our end of year favorites were Truffe blanche et noisette (white truffle and hazelnut), Fruit de la passion et chocolat au lait (passion fruit and milk chocolate), Rose, Huile d’olive et vanille (olive oil and vanilla) and Caramel a la fleur de sel (caramel with fleur de sel). Beware the flavors are seasonal and even during the season some may be hard to find. We tried three times to buy more of the white truffle macarons only to walk away empty handed.

72 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6, +33 (0) 1 43 54 47 77

185 rue de Vaugirard, Paris, 15 +33 (0) 1 47 83 89 96

www.pierreherme.com

Le Palais des Thés

For years, this has been our favorite tea purveyor. Le Palais des Thes sells white, green, black and red teas in a broad range of quality and prices from near and far. Frequent shoppers receive a fidelity card for bonus discounts and a newsletter (in French). On a number of occasions we have been fortunate to receive outstanding service. Only once have we been disappointed with the quality (an expensive Japanese rosewood tea container we purchased there chipped to reveal the rosewood was only a veneer).

A la Reine Astrid

We discovered this small chocolate haven, named for Queen Astrid of Belgium, while strolling in the Latin Quarter one day after a copious and most satisfying meal at a nearby gourmet restaurant. It was only by chance that the window and the distinctive orange colored packaging caught our eye. Inside, the exuberant chocolate smell and the friendly server was kind and patient prompting us to make a purchase (we weren’t hungry in the slightest). The delicious treats including assorted filled chocolates, fruit pates, chocolate covered coffee beans, chocolate covered orange, grapefruit and lemon slices, and chocolate grains called caviar de chocolate for hot chocolate sold in the distinctive deep orange boxes, attractive tins or plastic bags, when purchased in smaller quantities. Several visits, and many calories later, later we remain enchanted.

24, rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006, Paris +33 (0) 1 42 84 07 02, Fax +33 (0) 1 42 84 07 31

33, rue de Washington, 75008, +33 (0) 1 45 63 60 39, Fax +33 (0) 1 45 62 86 10

http://www.reineastrid.com (French/English bilingual website)